Month: November 2021

11/19/21

Well, I’ve had quite a range of San Francisco experiences today.

First, when I emerged from my host’s wonderful 1930s-era house about noon, it was raining. I was not thrilled about this, but at least it wasn’t very cold—high 50s. I wore my rain jacket, but didn’t bother with rain pants.

It was hard to see much scenery, though, while watching all the raindrops build up on my glasses as I navigated the streets of a busy and unfamiliar city. Still, I made my way back through Golden Gate Park, then north through the Presidio, and by the time I arrived there, the rain had mostly given way to fog.

That was a bummer, though, since I had really hoped for a sunny day to see the bridge. (Sun is forecast for the next few days, but I don’t think I’ll make it back to the bridge, unfortunately. Ah, well.)

It was pretty riding through the Presidio. Curving streets, eucalyptus trees, Spanish architecture, palm trees… all shrouded in mist. I stopped at the Korean War Memorial, and passed the national cemetery, both of which added a somber tone to the weather conditions.

As I approached the bridge, I could see Alcatraz Island. All such iconic views on this morning’s ride.

Last night I had felt twinges of some sort of guilt or regret for having initially crossed the bridge in a car, rather than officially “arriving” in San Francisco, via that glorious span, with my rig in tow. But today I was glad for it; I think I experienced a lot more of the surrounding scenery—and at a more leisurely pace—than I would have if I had been doing it out of utility. I am finding many such “tradeoffs” in this journey: sometimes I have a vision of how I think something will be, or how I hope it will be, or how I think it “should” be… and that version of events does not come to pass. I feel twinges of regret or disappointment, or sometimes even guilt or remorse… but then shortly afterward, it turns out that things actually unfold in a way that turns out to be better. A good life lesson.

So, yes, this was like that. And although I was disappointed that the bridge was so fogged in that I could barely take any photos, I still enjoyed making the crossing under my own power. I stopped at the “vista point” on the Marin County side, but it was so foggy the bridge was completely invisible! So, that iconic selfie will have to wait for a future trip, I suppose.

I turned around to head back “home,” and as I approached the bridge, the fog did begin to lift a little. Some shafts of sunlight shone in. That was pretty cool.

On the way back, I went through Golden Gate Park again. I have now been through that one section of it four times—twice in each direction—under various weather and lighting conditions. (And I think I have managed to take at least one, and sometimes two or three, wrong turns each time!)

This time, as I headed down MLK (I think? Might have been JFK) I saw a sign for a fern pond, or something like that. Glancing over, it looked really cool, almost like the “prehistoric” garden I recalled visiting in the Austin botanical garden a few years ago. This looked like a place I wanted to check out. And glancing at my watch, I gauged that I would have enough daylight left.

Unfortunately, all that rain made the streets and paths very slippery. As I turned back and onto the sidewalk from the street to go check out that natural area, I found myself slipping, then crashing onto the sidewalk, where I lay dazed for a few moments with my bike resting on top of me.

A few passersby stopped to see if I was all right. I sensed that I was, but I could feel some cuts and bruises forming, on my left knee and both palms, where I had made impact with the sidewalk. (I was thankful for my helmet, which I heard and felt hit the concrete as I went down. Guess it’s time to buy yet another new helmet, since once they take an impact, they are considered no longer safe.)

I thanked the passersby for their concern, and one of them lifted the bike off me. I told them I was all right; I kind of wanted them to walk away before I stood awkwardly up.

When I did, I saw that the left knee of my trusty nylon capris (worn almost every day on this trip, after I purchased them 15+ years ago for a group bicycle vacation on the big island of Hawai’i) was ripped open, and muddy. Aw, man.

The REI leggings underneath were unscathed, which was remarkable because when I got inside to check, I found that my knee was all scraped up underneath.

Biking back to my host’s house (with a detour to check out that pond anyway, dammit, and it was very pretty) I felt the discomfort in my knee and palms. But, my host gave me some Band-Aids and Neosporin, and my new Warmshowers host for tonight (just north of the park) gave me some Naproxen as an anti-inflammatory. So, I’m thankful. These things do happen, and it could have been a lot worse.

Unfortunately, as I biked over here to my new host’s place, my hydration pack’s bite valve came off in the street, leaving the open tube to drench my left leg and foot. This added insult to my recent injury… and it was about the sixth or seventh time this has happened. The first was on my ride between Arcata and Eureka, about two weeks ago. It has now begun happening almost daily, so I know I need to address it. (It’s only a matter of time before it happens in a place where the bite valve rolls off into irretrievable oblivion, leaving my clothes soaking wet and me without an easy way to stay hydrated.) I contacted Osprey’s customer-service email tonight, though they say it may take seven business days to reply.

I can see I’ll need to stop at a bike shop and/or outdoor-outfitters shop or two here in San Francisco, or at least in the bay: I’ll need a new helmet, possibly new nylon pants, and a new bite valve and/or bladder for the hydration pack. I also recently noticed some rust on a component of my bike the other day, so I’m going to take advantage of being in a metro area where there are several certified Brompton dealers. Hopefully they can tell me whether I need to worry about this part, and if so, they can replace it for me.

So… yes, an eventful day, and that’s just in my little bicycling world; that’s not to mention the Kyle Rittenhouse verdict. It can be hard for me to process everything that’s happening in the larger world. Sometimes on this journey I feel separate from “the world,” for better or worse. I see many problems in the world from a different vantage. I’m hoping that being “outside” of my social circle, outside of the working world, outside of traditional societal ways of living, for a whole year, will give me some sort of new perspective or new empowerment to do my best to help bring about changes that we need. I’m doing my best to trust that.

For now, I’m resting in my basement room here in another charming San Francisco house, this one from the late 1800s. It’s a bit cold in here, and my feet are still damp. I hope I will get a good night’s rest, and that I can enjoy exploring the park tomorrow, especially the Japanese garden.

Meanwhile, I hope you’re all taking good care of yourselves.

—

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11/18/21

I had one more day back in San Rafael today, before my San Francisco adventure begins tomorrow. I mostly took it easy, relaxing and chatting with my very interesting host, who has been a political activist and labor union attorney for decades. He is currently focused on climate change, and specifically working with California labor unions on addressing climate change.

After a good chat and some good snacks, I did head out to explore the nature around San Rafael for a bit. The bay looked beautiful from the waterfront park area near the house, and then I checked out a very small portion of China Camp State Park. (The Doobie Brothers’ China Grove played involuntarily and relentlessly in my head all day—every time I was reminded of the park’s name—for better or worse.)

This park exploration involved a bit of “off-roading,” which I rarely do. The Brompton isn’t designed for it (it’s a London commuter bike by design, meant for city riding and folding to take on the Tube) and mountain biking has never been my jam anyway. But I braved a bit of it today, walking the bike up the steepest and most uneven terrain. I got to some amazing views at the top of a hill, then gingerly alternately rode and walked the bike back down the steep and rocky slope into a neighborhood. I stopped to rest for a bit in a neighborhood park, then went back to the house, via what I thought was a shortcut, but which turned out to be a very steep hill. (They are ubiquitous here!) Rather than turning around, I challenged myself to climb it. After a few rests, I made it to the top, and along the way there were some cool clumps of trees in traffic-calming islands. The descent was once again kind of scary, even on smooth pavement, but I rode the brakes and made it back to the house.

My hosts were heading into the city for a fundraiser concert tonight, and were willing to tote me and my rig along with them in their car, so that I could avoid the rigorous ride and climb across the Golden Gate Bridge. Driving across it tonight was my first time experiencing the bridge, and it was as beautiful as I had expected in the nearly-faded daylight. I’m looking forward, though, to going back tomorrow on my bike (sans trailer) to experience the bridge more fully. I did bike through Golden Gate Park tonight, to get to my next Warmshowers host, who lives in a charming house built in 1936, the same year the bridge was opened. (The bathroom tile—which I assume is original—is wonderful!)

I was feeling a bit lonely tonight, since it’s been very difficult for me to stay connected to existing friends. I’ve been socializing nonstop on this journey, in person with new people, and I love it. But it can be overwhelming, and it’s a lot to take in, energetically and informationally. Meanwhile, I miss the feeling of connection to my friends and family. I put out a post on Facebook tonight to see if anyone was up for a phone call, and ended up talking to a Portland friend for an hour, which felt great.

Now it’s time to sleep. Tomorrow, I’m excited to see the bridge, the park, and the city in daylight!

—

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11/17/21

Today was another full day!

I got up early (for me, meaning before 8) and packed up my bags to send them off—without me—in a Lyft to my next San Rafael hosts’ house. The husband at that (this) house met the Lyft driver less than half an hour later, and unloaded the trailer and two bags, then texted me that they had arrived safe and sound. I continually give thanks for the marvels of modern technology.

This step saved me from having to carry the trailer along with me on my adventures today, which started with a ride to Roy’s Redwoods, just outside of Samuel P Taylor Park. There was a bit of a climb to get there, but I made it OK. I was to meet a friend of a friend there—he was driving from Santa Rosa—but I ended up getting there half an hour early, so I began walking the redwood loop myself. After the initial (beautiful) grove right near the parking area, the rest of the loop seemed a bit scant on redwoods, but there were many beautiful spots with various kinds of trees. My friend met me partway around the loop when he arrived, and then we loaded up the Brompton in his car and headed out to Point Reyes Station, where we walked two short trails, including one that marked an earthquake rupture from 1906!

Then we drove around the Marin peninsula for a while, along the scenic (but dangerous—oof) Hwy 1, and stopped in at the lovely and historic Pelican Inn for a drink in the lowering sunshine.

Then it was time for me to meet my Warmshowers hosts for the night, so my friend dropped me at their house in San Rafael. Tomorrow I hope to explore another nearby nature park (Marin is chock-full of them!) and then make my way to San Francisco.

—

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11/16/21

Well, I did it! I made it out to Muir Woods National Monument. Absolutely spectacular. I’m including more photos than usual, because I can’t help it. (You should see how many I culled, before choosing these!)

I’m also really getting a workout in this region. Wow. I climbed a total of about 1600 feet today, between the ride there and the ride back. (Still allowed myself to be ferried by my hosts up this last hill to the house—oof!) I expect I’ll sleep well tonight. That second selfie is me right after the climb out of the park, just before my descent.

It’s interesting to notice how it feels to challenge myself physically like this. There are a lot of hills around here. There’s about a 500’ one just before the park, so you climb it, then descend it, to get into the park, and then climb and descend again when you leave the park. I had to rest constantly on the ways up, like probably ten or twelve times each. I would stop long enough each time to take ten slow, deep breaths. Then when I’d start cycling again, I’d make up songs to sing to myself, like about how it’s OK to go slow—the point is to make it there. Or about how there’s only one way out, and that’s up, and I’ve got it in me to make it up. The songs definitely helped.

The park itself was spectacular. I only had time to walk along the one main trail, which is about a mile in. But that was enough, and I spent at least an hour or two in there. It was very cool amongst the trees, but I didn’t feel uncomfortable. My hands were cold, which normally bothers me, but I was so enraptured by my surroundings that I barely noticed today. It was just incredible to be in the presence of such ancient giants.

On the way back to the house, the sun was starting to set, and I got to see a lovely view as I crossed a bike-and-pedestrian bridge, of the light receding above the water.

I’m so glad I’m seeing all these redwoods. I’m planning to see some more tomorrow, at Samuel P Taylor Park.

—

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11/15/21

Today I traveled slightly south, from my hosts in San Rafael to my new hosts in Greenbrae. The new hosts live on an even steeper hill than the previous ones (eek!) and fortunately, they were also kindly willing to drive me up as I arrived.

The ride (to the bottom of the hill) there was pleasant, taking me first through scenic downtown San Rafael. (Take a look at the architecture, and also that propaganda museum! Sadly it was closed when I went by, but I love the concept, and was delighted to spot it as I biked past.)

After I left the city limits, I found myself on more bike paths (yay!) including tunnels and bridges. (Can you hear the outro theme to the original Dr. Who when you look at that tunnel pic?)

After some lunch and a brief chat with my hosts, I headed out through Marin County toward Sausalito. I didn’t quite make it all the way there—daylight was fading—but I did get as far as another nice locally owned natural foods store, and to get there I traversed what felt like several miles on various different bike paths, some right along the water. It was all very pleasant.

On the way back, I stopped in Corte Madera to redeem my birthday coupon at Veggie Grill for the familiar flavor of a Santa Fe “chicken” wrap, then hopped in a Lyft (50% off promotion right now!) to make it back up that formidable hill.

Tomorrow I think I’ll go to the redwoods in Muir Woods National Monument! Really looking forward to that.

—

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11/14/21

Today was another riding day. I’m slowly getting my body acclimated to bicycling again (especially those pesky hills!) But it’s coming along.

After a good night’s sleep and a nice breakfast with my hosts, I embarked a bit later than I had hoped; given my slow riding pace, that meant I arrived in San Rafael just as it was getting dark.

Once again, the scenery along the way was beautiful. The trees and fields around here are just breathtaking. And I was pleased to find that three (though admittedly smallish) segments of the day’s 25-mile ride were on dedicated car-free paths.

And at one point on a regular road, I enjoyed a fun “road safety mirror selfie.”

My San Rafael Warmshowers hosts live atop an extremely steep hill. The husband had offered to drive me up it. I had thought maybe I could just walk it… but once I actually saw the grade, I texted him to take him up on the offer! They do have a lovely view of the city; I’ll see it in the morning when there is light. We had a nice dinner together, swapping travel stories. They also told me about their “Garden of Eden” yard, with numerous fruit trees of many varieties. Coming from Portland, I am envious of this central California climate where so many types of fruit trees can produce during so many seasons of the year.

I’m having a bit of a lodging snafu at this late hour; my second San Rafael hosts, for tomorrow, texted to say they are having plumbing issues (which means no running water at the moment) as of today. They hope the problem will be resolved late tomorrow afternoon, and they were gracious enough to still offer to host me. Given that I expect to want a shower, though, I am seeking out alternative lodging. Sounds like there may be a nearby Servas host who can come through; we’ll see!

This journey is never short on surprises, some fun and some not. And things can turn on a dime! I’m curious to see what tomorrow will bring.

—

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11/13/21

Wow, what a gorgeous ride today! I don’t know that I’ve ever seen weather/scenery quite like this. It was both foggy and sunny (I think that’s pretty common here, but unfamiliar to me.) The fields, vineyards, cows, and trees looked amazing.

On my way out of Sebastopol this morning, I did stop on Florence Avenue, to see the sculptures. They were pretty cool!

I’m noticing how out of shape I’ve gotten in the past month and a half, not biking between cities much, just in town. That is changing now, as I’m able to turn to the bike as my primary mode of transport again. But… yeah. Feeling it on these hills! (And bigger hills tomorrow!)

When I arrived in Petaluma, I briefly said hello to my Warmshowers host, and stashed my trailer in an outbuilding at his and his wife’s house, then pedaled on in toward downtown to meet up for coffee with a Servas couple. They had been unable to offer me hosting at this time, but we all agreed we wanted to meet up to talk.

I’m so glad I did; they were delightful and interesting people, with an unbelievable story—filled to the brim with magic—about their wedding three weeks ago in Maine, after 25 years of being together! Hearing about how so many amazing things came together for them in unexpected ways renewed my excitement about the magic driving my own journey.

After we said goodbye, I had just a short while to bike around town, in beautiful warm and sunny weather; I wish I had a bit more time here. Petaluma seems pretty cool, and I wish I’d been able to take better photos of the downtown area, which seemed hip and bustling, despite the small-town feel.

Two of my favorite vegan companies are headquartered here in Petaluma: Miyoko’s Creamery and Sjaak’s chocolates. Sadly, neither one has a storefront. I did learn today that Miyoko Schinner herself has founded an animal sanctuary, Rancho Compasion, in Nicasio, between here and Point Reyes. I’m still hoping I can find a way to visit Point Reyes on my way through, since I associate it with John Francis and the beginning of his Planetwalker story. I have contacted a potential Servas host there, but have not heard back. If anyone reading this knows of someone in or near Point Reyes who might be able to host me for a night or (preferably) two, please feel free to put us in touch!

I returned to my hosts’ place, and joined them for a delicious meal of vegan quinoa tacos and fresh melon. (I hear tell of homemade muesli in the morning!) I’m staying in a guest room in the workshop of the husband, who is a local sign maker in high demand. (In fact, he had recently painted the sign of the coffee shop where I met the Servas folks yesterday!) He helped me to clean and lube my chain after dinner, which I greatly appreciated, since I knew that chore was overdue and I had been putting it off. He also showed me some of his cool bikes, and shared that he will be cycling across Canada for his next big trip.

This has been a full day. I’m looking forward to tomorrow’s adventure: San Rafael!

—

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11/12/21

I’ve had one more day in this small town, and it’s been fun!

Today I walked my host’s dog, Angus, in the streets around the cohousing community, which included some beautiful eucalyptus trees and a church-owned property that had some lovely gardens and a children’s play area. (I couldn’t get good photos, so you’ll have to take my word for that.)

In the afternoon, I made my way into town to experience Muir’s Tea Room. This is the only all vegan restaurant in town, and it also happens to be a tea house where they serve a fancy high tea! Unfortunately I had neither the time nor the finances to experience the latter, but I at least bought a mocha cupcake to eat in the charming front garden overlooking Main Street.

After that, I felt compelled to visit the Sebastopol location of the Community Market. I never seem to tire of visiting locally owned natural-foods stores everywhere I go. This one had some picnic tables out front, facing the street, so I sat and ate a locally made wrap filled with hummus and dolmas(!) and enjoyed the warm late-afternoon sun.

Then I headed back to the cohousing community, to pack up my things and ride to my next Sebastopol hosts, along another wonderful car-free path. The light was fading as I passed various neighbors out walking the trail, and many beautiful trees. Right before I arrived at my destination, I passed a large duo of buildings just next to an established orchard. It appeared to be a residential complex of some sort, but turned out to be the headquarters of a publishing company. Out front, I was startled to encounter a large sculpture of a lemur. Apparently, this is one example of the work of a celebrated local artist, Patrick Amiot, whose outdoor “gallery” along Florence Street I intend to visit tomorrow on my way out of town.

I soon arrived at the house of my charming and multifaceted Warmshowers hosts, whose interests include bike touring, playing multiple musical instruments, textile arts, international travel, rollerblading, and more! We shared a nice meal, including a wonderful apple-rhubarb crisp for dessert. (I would never have thought to combine those two fruits, but it was a winning combo.)

I’m staying in an adorable outbuilding in their backyard, complete with a ladder to my sleeping loft!

This part of California has been great to visit. I’m looking forward to Petaluma tomorrow.

—

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11/11/21

Today was warm and sunny, just like I like it!

This morning I bade farewell to my gracious hosts, and set off down the hill into Sebastopol. I biked past vineyards and hills, though I wasn’t able to get very good photos of them. Shortly after I left, I encountered a couple walking their three dogs along the road (if you’re reading, hi, Peter and Amy!) and we talked about my Brompton and my journey for a while. I always enjoy interacting with people about these topics.

When I reached town, I met up at a coffee shop with an acquaintance, with whom I had a great chat. He ended up giving me a pretty extensive tour of Sebastopol and Santa Rosa, and we enjoyed a couple of local vegan restaurants and a locally owned natural-foods store. I was glad to get to see a bit more of Santa Rosa.

After our visit, I headed back to Sebastopol on the same rails-to-trails path I took yesterday afternoon, and then met tonight’s host in a local park where he was walking his dog. (I’ll get to walk the dog tomorrow!)

He and his wife live in yet another local cohousing community; I have been surprised by how popular such communities are here in Sonoma County. Very cool. My host had made a big pot of delicious bean-and-vegetable soup, and we enjoyed it, along with some sourdough bread from a local bakery, outside with several neighbors from the community. Many of them had lived in the community since its inception, 22 years ago. I’m appreciating the deep community roots that many people in this area seem to have as well, much like those I met around the Ukiah area.

When it got chilly, I headed inside to the guest room in their community. While guests have traditionally been common in this place, I am their first guest in a year and a half—since COVID hit—so that’s kind of cool.

I’ve got one more day and night in Sebastopol, and then I’ll head south a bit, to Petaluma. Highs in the low 70s in this area for the next several days; I’m loving it!

—

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11/10/21

Today was another multimodal travel day. After a leisurely morning, lounging around the house and then meandering over to the worker-owned local grocery store, I packed up my rig once again, said goodbye to my host, and headed to the Cotati SMART train station. I love local trains and transit systems almost as much as long-distance trains, so even though I only “needed” the train for two stops—to downtown Santa Rosa—I chose to take it, rather than cycling that distance.

I’m so glad I did. In that very brief time, I interacted with three interesting fellow passengers on this commuter line:

A young man (if you’re reading this, hi, Humberto!) who was intrigued by my rig, and who told me about a friend of his with a degenerative disease, who, along with others with the same condition, recently undertook a cycle-across-America trip of their own. From what I gathered, this ride served several purposes: for the participants to enjoy the physicality they still had access to (some of them rode modified bikes to make it more accessible for them); to raise awareness about their condition; and to raise funds to help people with their condition.

Another passenger appeared to be a young-teenaged boy who was a regular rider. Immediately upon boarding, he asked Humberto if he would be willing to give up his seat, because that seat is his favorite one on the bus. (Humberto graciously complied, seemingly both puzzled and bemused by the request.) This young fellow proved to be a font of knowledge about the transit system and the history of Santa Rosa, reeling off dates of when certain local buildings had been constructed, and when the train platform at the downtown station had been replaced.

The third passenger noticed my rig as we exited the train, and expressed interest in buying a Brompton for herself. She was a professor at Washington State University (I wanted to ask about this, but she walked away quickly after our brief exchange about the bike) and admiringly proclaimed the Brompton “slick as shit,” marveling that it would make her travels much easier.

I love traveling with this rig. And taking transit. And meeting people.

When I disembarked, I quickly found the Joe Rodata Trail, just a couple of blocks away: six car-free miles of pavement connecting downtown Santa Rosa to downtown Sebastopol, adjacent to the highway. The wine-country views of fields and trees were beautiful, as the light began to fade.

I met my hosts for tonight—longtime friends of my Portland friend Marc, from when they did a peace march across the country together in the 1980s—at their mom-and-pop optometry shop in downtown Sebastopol. They treated me to a home-cooked meal in their cozy house outside of town, while their two enthusiastic puppies and three snuggly cats kept us company.

Tomorrow I’m looking forward to exploring Sebastopol!

—

Do you have your own dream or project, and would like some support or collaborative brainstorming about it? Use the green “contact” button above to schedule a one-hour phone or video call with me!

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