Virginia adventures
5/14/26
After my lovely visit with my aunt and uncle and their dogs in North Carolina, I boarded the train in Cary bound for Richmond, Virginia.
I was looking forward to some bike and train explorations, and I got them! The train part, especially, had taken me literally months of research and turning over possibilities in my head. It finally came together!
First, I arrived at the home of my first wonderful Richmond Warmshowers hosts, Pat and Steve. They live, with their two dogs, within three miles of the Staples Mill Amtrak station. (Richmond is one of very few cities with two Amtrak stations. One is conveniently located downtown, but the main one that serves all the stations I needed was Staples Mill, pretty far northwest of town, so it was great to find hosts nearby.) Pat and Steve were incredibly warm and welcoming, and had a lovely guest suite in the basement, so it was a perfect place to stay. I chatted with the two of them while snuggling on the couch with their dog Lefty, and then I set out on my bike to explore a nearby park.
The difference in the “neighborhood look” from Florida was striking. A whole different kind of architectural and spring-nature beauty here.
The next day, I set out on my quest to cross two more Amtrak line segments off my map: Richmond to Newport News, and Richmond to Norfolk. This had been a difficult proposition because both lines only run once per day, and both lines—although they run all the way to New York—use trainsets without baggage cars, since they are considered commuter lines. This meant I could not take my rig on them to spend a night or two or three in either of those cities, unfortunately; I would have to do it as a day trip, or else stay in a hotel for a night with no change of clothes and minimal toiletries. (Or stay with a Servas family at a nearby nudist resort in Ivor, Virginia, which I also considered!) The timing of the lines was such that it was an iffy proposition as to whether I could do it all in one day. That was another reason I appreciated staying with Pat and Steve: they were very flexible as to my dates to stay with them. If I were to miss the connection in Norfolk, I could stay in a hotel there that night, and then return to them the following night.
So I departed their house that morning and biked to the Staples Mill station. I boarded the train to Newport News, and the two-hour ride passed uneventfully.
From the station there, I boarded an Amtrak connector bus to Norfolk. That 40-minute bus ride across the James River/Burwell Bay/Atlantic Ocean (not sure where the line is drawn) was a bit stressful for me: we moved along at what felt like a reasonable pace, but then slowed to a crawl, and then a stop, before we reached the water. Apparently this is a normal traffic pattern, but I kept worrying that I would miss my connection in Norfolk. (Hardly anyone would need or want to make the loop I was making, so Amtrak would have no reason to make any effort to sync the two lines, or delay the departure to wait for the bus’s arrival, like they do on some lines that are commonly used in conjunction with each other.)
I was further surprised when, after we started moving again, we descended into a tunnel to cross the bay! Then about halfway across, we emerged from the tunnel onto a bridge. (My father later explained to me the military reason for this structure, but in the moment it just seemed surreal.)
We made it to the Norfolk station with minutes to spare, and I raced my bike the few blocks from the bus drop-off to the train, boarding just in time to make the connection. I was sad not to have seen any of Newport News nor Norfolk, but thoroughly pleased to be able to mark these lines off my goal of riding every mile of track in Amtrak’s network!
The ride back to Richmond was pleasant and uneventful.
The following afternoon, I said goodbye to Pat and Steve and the doggies, and set out from their northwestern location to the home of my next Warmshowers hosts, out on the eastern edge of town. The ride between them was beautiful.
Lauren, one of my new hosts, met me partway at a lovely park, and we took a goldenhour stroll.
She led me across a really cool bike and pedestrian bridge, which sadly the photo doesn’t do full justice. It was very swoopy and cool!
When we arrived at their house, they were having a family celebration for her husband Alex’s birthday. His mother and their 6-year-old son had made a very elaborate mountain-biking-themed cake for him! I was thoroughly impressed.
The next day, I set out to ride the Virginia Capital Trail. It is a very long trail, so I knew I wouldn’t be able to do the whole thing, but I first headed back in toward town, and reached that end of the trail.
I sat in the pedestrian plaza by the water and just soaked in the relaxing sunshine.
Then I made my way back out, continuing as far as I could into the countryside. The weather was perfect for such a ride, and the season made it breathtakingly beautiful.
Possibly the coolest part of all? After at least an hour of just lounging on various sunny benches in Dorey Park, I had set out on my way back to the house when I crossed a bridge on the trail just in time to see a small lizard scurrying away(!) Although I didn’t have the opportunity to stop and really connect with this lizard like I had with the ones in Florida, I had now experienced my first-ever Virginia lizard sighting, after having lived in that state for 15 years!
Now I’ll see if I can manage to find a lizard in the wild in Oregon this summer… (I’ve heard there are alligator lizards there, but I’ve never seen one. Maybe now that I have been “primed” by all the lizard connections this winter, it will finally happen?)
Then there was one last bit of magic on my way back: I got to ride on Darbytown Road.
Locals will tell you—correctly—that this is not a good road for cycling. There are no bike lanes, and drivers take the twists and turns uncomfortably fast.
But this road—which I had never seen until that day—had a special meaning for me.
Growing up in then-rural western Loudoun County, in northern Virginia, we had a neighbor family, the McLeans, who moved in when I was in second or third grade. Laurie, the youngest of three daughters, was just a year younger than me, and we became friends.
I only briefly met her older sisters, Kathy and April. But many years later—when I was in my thirties, living in Portland—I somehow learned that April had become a singer-songwriter. I went online and found some of her songs. Her latest album at that time was called Darbytown Road, and the title track—a song to her mother—brought me to tears when I heard it. (I tried to find a link to share it with you, but that song doesn’t seem to be available unless you buy the whole album for $5.)
So, it felt like a cool full-circle moment to me to ride on this road. (I had forgotten that the McLeans had lived in Richmond before they moved to Waterford.)
I hummed the song to myself as I pedaled along.
And even one more bit of magic: my next turn, after Darbytown, was onto Oregon Street!
My time in Richmond was rich indeed.
Next up: the DC area and Bethesda, Maryland!
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