Month: June 2022

6/20/22

On this, the eve of the summer solstice, my Servas host family treated me to a wonderful and rare experience: a dinner boat ride on the lake, right in time for sunset!

More on that in a moment, but it was a full day overall, so I’ll share the rest first.

To start the day, I pedaled a few blocks away to check out a hidden neighborhood gem: an old quarry, now mostly grown over. It is tucked into the neighborhood on a dead-end street, and if my last two hosts hadn’t told me about it, I never would have known to seek it out. But it was a really cool little greenspace, with little paths in several directions.

After that, I went back to the co-op to buy a few provisions for the road tomorrow: the Hero Islands are not known for vegan-friendly restaurants and shops. (In fact, the hotel I have booked seems to have a strong fishing theme.) Both at the co-op and shortly before and afterward, I saw some cool colorful murals.

That last one is on Church Street, the brick-paved pedestrian plaza in the middle of town. While there, I dipped into the Ben & Jerry’s shop—just a few doors down from their original 1978 location, I believe—to sample their new vegan flavor, strawberry marshmallow. (I added a scoop of the Colin Kaepernick-inspired Change the Whirled, too.)

After Church Street, I meandered back home via the UVM campus. It was quiet during the summer, but during school months, its 10,000 students make up about twenty percent of the city of Burlington’s population.

My next adventure was to bike over to the lakeshore park to meet up with my new friend Kim, a fellow Marillion fan who will be attending the Marillion Weekend in Montreal with me in a couple of weeks. We took a beautiful stroll down the boardwalk (where I saw many swinging benches that reminded me of those in St. Petersburg, Florida) and then the bike path where I had ridden yesterday to get to Rock Point. We stopped to admire a sandy beach where many people and dogs were enjoying the sun.

After Kim and I exchanged numbers, we parted ways and I continued down to the dock, where my hosts Valerie and Michael and their 16-year-old son Isaac were waiting on the boat for me. Shortly after we set “sail” (not really—it’s a motor boat) we made a quick stop to pick up their amazing friend and neighbor Melanie, who waded out into 58-degree water to meet us, like a superhuman! (After dinner, Michael and Isaac also each took a dip in that water, from the boat. My hat is off to all three of them, who are clearly true-blue Vermonters!)

With Melanie on board, Valerie unpacked an extensive, homemade vegan spread for us all to enjoy, including quiche, two kinds of salad, local bread and butter, chips and salsa, and watermelon and strawberries, the latter of which she picked today. It was a wonderful repast.

Melanie is spending a week sleeping at a retreat center on Rock Point, where I hiked yesterday and where we sailed around today. It was cool to see the forest and rock formations from a different perspective. And watching Melanie wade back out to her island home for the night, after we dropped her off, made me think of the magical selkie from John Sayles’ classic film The Secret of Roan Inish.

On the boat, we talked about life and human connections, as well as the amazing work that Michael and Valerie do as founders and leaders of the Vermont online community Front Porch Forum. They began this venture in 2000. On the surface, it  bears much similarity to Nextdoor.com, but it predates it by a number of years, and is a grassroots-based neighborly site rather than one founded by venture capitalists and often mired in controversy. I was very inspired to hear about all the work they have done with the site over the years—including now—and how successful it has been within the state of Vermont.

We capped off the voyage by watching the sun set over the lake.

Wow.

I’ve had such a thoroughly wonderful time here in Burlington. I’m so glad I was able to add Vermont to my itinerary after all.

Now I’ve got one day of spring left before summer officially begins, and one more day in the United States, for about the next month. I’ve got three solid days of cycling ahead of me now, 30+ miles per day.

I’m really looking forward to experiencing the Hero islands tomorrow!

—

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6/19/22

Another beautiful couple of days here in Burlington. Yesterday was mostly kind of windy and rainy, so I stayed in for much of the day, but my hosts and I did attend a Juneteenth event downtown in the evening, including some great musical and poetry performances, and even a panel discussion featuring Dr. Angela Davis! (I took photos, but the lighting made them not turn out, unfortunately.) I couldn’t believe she was in town and that I got the chance to see such a living legend.

Today I said goodbye to Heather, Ben, and Jesse, and biked only a few short blocks away to my new (and final Burlington) Servas host family: Valerie, Michael, their sons Henry and Isaac, their dog Jake, and their parrot Kiwi!

Shortly after my arrival, Valerie took me on a walk with Jake, to see her community garden plot as well as walk down to the lakeshore beach.

They are a very busy family, so although we got some good interaction time via walks, a homemade dinner of vegan tacos, and the viewing of a couple of Seinfeld episodes, I spent most of the afternoon exploring Rock Point while the parents attended Henry’s baseball game in Montpelier.

I biked north on the bike path a couple of miles to reach it, and then spent about an hour and a half hiking the incredible lakeside trail.

Along the bike trail on the way there, I passed the Burlington Amtrak station. I’m sad that the timing was just slightly off for me, because no Amtrak trains come through here now, but on July 29th they will resume service from New York City to Burlington (first time since 1953!) This is great news, and I hope I can take that line at some point in the not-too-distant future.

Heather had raved about Rock Point, and strongly recommended I visit it, and I’m so glad I did. The trees were incredible. The lake views were incredible. The sky and clouds were incredible.

I could have spent easily another hour on continuations of the trail, but I needed to get back in time for dinner, so I turned around.

One extra cool feature of the trail was a beach with a wooden xylophone and two mallets suspended from a fallen tree. I was the only one there when I descended the staircase, so I spent a bit of time hammering out “Doe a Deer” and making up a few of my own tunes, before I turned around and noticed a family of three on the steps behind me, awaiting their own turn with the music. I relinquished the spot and continued hiking, while their music floated through the forest after me.

Tomorrow is my last full day in Burlington. I plan to explore downtown’s Church Street—the brick-paved pedestrian plaza where the flagship Ben & Jerry’s shop is situated—and hopefully also meet up with a local Marillion fan.

Life is good.

—

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6/17/22

Wow. This place is so cool, in so many ways. Incredible natural beauty, whimsical art, cool architecture and industrial remnants, two big co-ops… it’s a wonderland!

Yesterday I went walking again in Red Rocks Park with my hosts and their dog. The forest is large and amazing. This morning, I went out into it again to savor it a bit more.

Then I biked north along the bike path, toward downtown Burlington. I visited the gorgeous treehouse in Oakledge Park (it’s even wheelchair-accessible) as well as the Stonehenge-like Earth Clock in the same park.

Then I went to visit the south co-op again for a snack (the building with the moose mural) and right next to it was the world’s tallest filing cabinet!

After that, I visited nearby Lake Champlain Chocolates, where I picked up a few vegan truffles. (I didn’t spring for the “chocolate bar library,” but I delighted in the concept!)

Then I made my way back to Lauren and Doug’s house to bid them farewell and pick up my trailer. I hopped back onto the bike trail to get to my next Servas hosts, Heather and Ben and their son Jesse and Greyhound Emmy. (I am their first Servas guest!) We had homemade pizzas for dinner, and then took an evening walk through the art district and down to the waterfront, where a brewing storm made the sky surreal.

I’m loving this town so far.

—

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6/15/22

This state continues to be gorgeous.

I meandered my way very slowly today from Essex to South Burlington, which was less than ten miles. I stretched it out over several hours, stopping to soak in the views in many parks and beautiful spaces.

But first, I encountered a bit of “travel magic!”

Around 10:00 I said goodbye to my Essex host Melissa, and lugged all the pieces of my rig out her front door to assemble on the sidewalk. This is generally a straightforward procedure.

But I ran into mechanical trouble with the trailer hitch. It seemed kind of stuck, as if nearly invisible debris was keeping the movable part from moving. I had not encountered this problem before. It seemed like there should be an easy fix, but I kept trying to slide the movable piece down far enough to attach the trailer to the hitch, and I could not get it to do so.

I tried to remain calm. I considered my options.

Maybe I could call a local bike shop? Maybe Melissa could give me a ride over there, with the trailer…? Or maybe they could somehow help me over the phone?

Or maybe I could call Freedom Folding Bikes again, the shop in Boulder where I purchased the trailer. They are the only US distributor for this Dutch product, and when I had had some mechanical trouble before, the owner provided superlative service over the phone.

But then I realized it was before 9:00 in Boulder. They were unlikely to be open.

Then I thought maybe I could use some of the cleaner/degreaser I had bought at the bike shop in Charlottesville. That would probably be my best bet to start with, at least.

I opened up the trailer and located the bright yellow bottle. I shook it up well, and drizzled some product onto the affected area.

Didn’t seem to do the trick.

Tried it again. Hmmm, still no.

Argh!

And then the magic happened:

Right at that moment, a pickup truck with decals pulled into the apartment parking spot right next to me. The man who got out asked if I lived in that unit. I said no, and he proceeded to the door to knock… but not before asking, jokingly, if I had a baby inside the trailer. (“It might be kinda hot by now!” Indeed, the sun was beating down.) I laughed and told him I was having a challenge.

“Oh, do you need some WD-40?”

“Hmmm… I’m not sure if it would help, because this product isn’t working. But I can try; thanks!”

He swiftly produced a can from the truck, as well as a paper towel to wipe down the excess and grime.

I tried it… and it worked!

Wow.

What are the odds? On so many levels…

(He had come to repair Melissa’s refrigerator, which she had told me was broken.)

I thanked him profusely, cleaned up and packed up, and was on my merry way!

Before long, I was startled to pass a whimsical stick sculpture on the side of the bike path, in the shape of a ball of yarn with knitting needles in it!

When I arrived in the small midpoint town of Winooski, I stopped for lunch at one of the few all-vegan restaurants in the Burlington area, Pingala. Their menu was extensive, and everything looked great. After some deliberation, I settled on the Caesar salad wrap.

Outside the restaurant, at the bike rack, I saw another bike trailer. It was locked to a tree! I had never seen a lockable trailer before. When I returned for my rig after lunch, I saw the cyclist emerging from the building—where he told me he works—with his dog, who was to ride home with him in the trailer.

Adorable. This is Vermont, I guess. (I had actually been noticing a dearth of bike trailers in many recent cities I’ve visited. But in my short time here near Burlington, I saw this one with the dog, and another one later in the evening.)

I ate my lunch on a picnic table overlooking the nearby waterfall. The building where the restaurant is situated is an old mill. (And, as I later learned, tonight’s host Lauren teaches yoga in that building too!)

After lunch, I continued along a scenic riverfront bikeway for a while, then found myself entering the city of Burlington.

I saw some creatively painted industrial silos on the side of a building, and later, as I headed into South Burlington, noticed lots of beautiful greenspace.

Right before I arrived at my Servas hosts’ place, I passed the incredible Red Rocks nature park, where I then stopped and walked among the trees in awe.

When I did meet up with Lauren and her husband Doug, they served me a delicious home-cooked pasta meal, and then we headed out around sunset with their cute elder dog, Mia, for a walk down to the waterfront, right at the end of their street.

The sunset views from the street, and then right down on the bay of Lake Champlain, were mesmerizing.

What a beautiful place. Tomorrow, I hope to explore a local 12-mile bike path.

—

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6/14/22

Wow. This state is indeed incredible.

I spent the most of the daylight hours exploring the small town of Brattleboro (population 12,000) with its historic buildings, cute pocket parks and old-time common, incredible green-mountain views, and one of the largest grocery co-ops I’ve visited, despite the size of the town.

After I had spent some time “downtown,” I decided to do some hiking in the forested trails right on the edge of town. (Literally within a couple blocks of my hosts’ house.) I had noticed that there was a castle-looking thing peeking through the trees near the top of a hill, so I made it a mission to go and see it up close. It felt enchanting.

Then it was time to begin heading to the train station, so I made my way back past a picturesque reservoir near a solar-paneled red barn, and bade a fond farewell to my Warmshowers hosts.

I headed down the hill to one of the most diminutive Amtrak stations I’ve seen, enjoying the green views along the way. Boarding the train with the rig was once again a bit tricky—the taciturn conductor muttered “this shouldn’t be allowed on board” as he helped me to heft it up the stairs—but the train itself was rather empty, which felt luxurious after all the packed Northeast Corridor trains I’ve taken recently. And the evening-light views out the window were once again spectacular.

I arrived in Essex Junction, about ten miles east of Burlington (no Amtrak station in Burlington) at about 8:30 pm, and biked the easy half mile to my new hosts’ home. Tomorrow I will make my way in to the fabled Burlington!

—

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6/13/22

Today was a travel day, but a very relaxed one since the train ride took less than two hours. I spent a leisurely morning in Springfield, chatting with my host Ben and then heading out to enjoy Forest Park a bit more.

I also checked out a vegan restaurant in town, Garden of Eat’n, and then visited a natural-foods store called Bumpy’s, where I met the gregarious Bumpy himself! He even took a video on his phone of me with my bike.

On the way to the train station in the afternoon, I stopped at the Dr. Seuss sculpture garden, which my friend Judy (who hosted me early in my trip, in Corvallis, Oregon, with her partner Jeffrey) had brought to my attention yesterday. I had had no idea that Theodor Geisel was born in Springfield. The sculpture garden was whimsical and fun.

And the train ride was pleasant, although once again it was a bit of a challenge lugging the trailer on and off, and at one point, even down the narrow aisle of the coach car. Fortunately, a generous fellow passenger as well as a really cool conductor helped me with it all.

When I disembarked, my Warmshowers host Alice was waiting for me on the platform… with her Brompton! (It’s amazing how many Bromptons I have been encountering lately.) I wish I had thought to take a photo: hers is a bright pink and blue color scheme, which I had definitely never seen before!

Her household is recently vegan, and we enjoyed a delicious home-cooked meal of a fresh asparagus tart from locally grown asparagus. She and her husband and daughter were all interesting folks, although we didn’t have much time to talk. The daughter, Olivia, has just completed a German degree at Brown University, and my sister and her partner—whom I know will be reading this—will be tickled to know that she is heading to Freiburg for a couple of weeks this summer, to teach English in a summer program.

Small world.

Tomorrow afternoon I plan to board the same train northbound. Destination not certain yet; it will depend where I can find lodging, either in Montpelier, Waterbury, Essex Junction, or Burlington. (Know anyone??)

But first, I plan to explore Brattleboro, checking out the co-op (where Alice’s husband Greg works) and some local parks.

Vermont is beautiful so far!

—

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6/12/22

Well, the clouds were out pretty much all day, but the forecasted rain never did materialize.

So, I took the opportunity to bike about 15 miles north of Springfield, up to my maternal grandmother’s alma mater, Mount Holyoke College. It was a gorgeous, classic New England campus, and it felt pretty cool to be there nearly 100 years after she started there in 1926. The school was already nearly 100 years old by that point, having been founded in 1837.

The ride to and from the school was also beautiful. Before leaving Springfield, I encountered a really cool-looking “tube” bridge across the railroad tracks. I was excited to cross it. Sadly, once I got close I discovered that the elevator was out of service. It was a bummer to have to fold the bike and carry it up several flights of stairs, but I thanked my lucky stars that 1) I didn’t have the trailer with me, and 2) I was on a bike, and not in a wheelchair.

After crossing that bridge, I saw a number of industrial and scenic buildings and bridges.

Returning from the college several hours later, I passed some extra-cool-looking, desolate railroad tracks, and felt compelled to capture them. Shortly afterward, as I arrived back into town, I passed the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame. The unique building caught my eye.

As I neared my hosts’ house and reached Forest Park, I was captivated by the black benches ringed by trees in the dusky light, so I sat and enjoyed that ambience for a while.

When I returned to the house, there was another guest—a friend of theirs—on the porch, so we all sat and enjoyed dinner together over good conversation, as the daylight dimmed.

Tomorrow, I’m heading to Brattleboro, on my first-ever visit to Vermont!

—

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6/11/22

Yesterday was my last full day in the Boston area, and I spent it mostly in and around Brookline, enjoying leisurely time in natural spaces around the Chestnut Hill Reservoir, then at old-time Boston vegan restaurant institution Grasshopper (vegan tempura!) and then back to Arne’s place in Newton. I got my fill of beautiful leafy trees and waterways in Boston, especially yesterday.

This morning, I said goodbye again to Arne and the cats (that’s Buddy on the bed) and headed downtown to the venerable South Station, where I caught my train to Springfield. The ride was relatively uneventful, if pleasant, and I dozed a bit. When I disembarked, a man standing at the platform greeted me and asked about my bike. We ended up chatting for at least half an hour about my journey as well as his own summertime nomad-like voyages around the US. He likes to travel in a variety of low-impact ways, meeting up with friends and environmental activists around the country. Very cool!

I then followed Google Maps’ directions from the station to the home of my new hosts, Julie and Ben, who are awesome. They live right near the large Forest Park; Google sent me on a dirt path through the woods there to reach them, which was actually pretty cool.

We had a dinner of homemade tacos and margaritas on their wonderful front porch, with some friends of theirs. The weather was perfect, the food was delicious, the ‘70s/’80s “soundtrack” made me feel right at home, and the conversation was good.

Tomorrow the forecast calls for rain, so I’m not sure whether I’ll make the 15-or-so-mile trek up to the Mt. Holyoke College campus, where my grandmother received her bachelor’s degree in economics in 1930, nearly 100 years ago.

This place feels good. I’ll see how things unfold.

—

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6/9/22

Today started out with pouring rain. The forecast showed that it would continue most of the day, so I planned to stay indoors mostly, and maybe venture out to a museum or two.

But by late morning, it had cleared up, and as the day unfolded, the sun came out and no more rain fell!

So I took the opportunity to spend some quality time in Boston Common, which had been my original intention for the day.

Once again, I enjoyed the architecture on the way to and from the park. While at the park, the lighting conditions changed considerably over the course of the few hours I was there, as you can see. It was pretty cool.

In the early evening, I made my way back to Diane’s place and packed up the rig to continue on to the place of my new Servas host, Farah.

On the way, though, I noticed something remarkable: a cyclist in the bike lane ahead of me on the busy thoroughfare of Columbus Avenue was picking up trash as he rode. He had one of those long picker-upper sticks that people carry sometimes to clean sidewalks. He held the gadget in his right hand, and picked up pieces of debris that ranged in size from a cigarette butt to a crumpled paper fast-food meal bag. He would deposit the trash in his front basket. All of this without breaking his stride, in the bike lane on a busy street! (It was all I could do to manage myself on that street.) At times he would reach back and put the gadget into some sort of holder that was attached to the back of his bike. But then after maybe half a block or so, he’d see more trash, and take it out again. I even saw him reach it partway under a car at one point.

Wow. Kudos to you, sir! The world needs more people like you.

I arrived at Farah’s place just in time to share a delicious and healthy meal she had prepared, while we talked about travel and such. It’s a short stay here—just one night—so I’ll be on my way around noon tomorrow. Tomorrow will be my last night in Boston, before I head west in Massachusetts to Springfield.

—

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6/8/22

Today I went back and forth a couple of times between Newton, where my Warmshowers host Arne is, and through Brookline to South Boston, where my new Warmshowers host Diane is. This took me through many beautiful leafy areas along the Charles River Bike Path, and also on some very busy, and honestly sometimes scary, city streets.

In the middle of all this, I had the good fortune to meet up with a local transportation planner at Boston University. I had seen Carl Larson’s name many times over the years in Portland, mostly in the comments section of the wonderful bikeportland.org blog. But as I recently learned, he had been a fixture in the local bike advocacy community there between about 2006 and 2016, working for the Bicycle Transportation Alliance (now called the Street Trust) and later, the Biketown bicycle-sharing company.

He moved back to Boston a few years ago to be closer to family, and now he works in Transportation Demand Management (TDM, to transportation nerds like me) at Boston University.

He kindly took an hour out of his busy day to meet up with me and talk transportation while we walked around Brookline near his BU office. (But first, as I stashed my bike in the office, he showed me his own Brompton, which he purchased ten years ago at the same Portland shop, Clever Cycles, where I got mine!)

During our walk we passed a ghost bike, which he explained was the grim impetus for the reluctant university decision makers to finally partner with the city—after years of grassroots advocacy by local cyclists—to install a physically separated bike lane along the auto-heavy Commonwealth Avenue. (He also told me that Commonwealth used to be one of the largest auto-dealership strips in the Boston area, in the first half of the twentieth century, so the site of his TDM office there, and all the nearby bike infrastructure, were somewhat ironic and poignant.)

We also walked past a mural depicting a vibrant historic street scene including a streetcar, as well as the house where John F. Kennedy was born.

After we parted ways, I biked back to Newton to say goodbye to Arne and the cats, and then headed back along the bike path, and then Commonwealth, to Diane’s place. We stashed my rig at her apartment, and then walked to dinner at a nearby restaurant, sharing stories about bike touring and our various magical Warmshowers experiences.

I admired the architecture along the way.

Tomorrow I hope to spend some time outside, especially back in Boston Common, but there is rain forecast for most of the day—and even some thunderstorms—so we’ll see what ends up unfolding.

—

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